Crosman 180 Stock Refinish Part 2

Found a small block of walnut in the pile. There's a great lumber yard/mill work shop nearby that always has small pieces of walnut, cherry, chestnut, etc for cheap. If I see a good looking block or small plank, I'll add it to the collection.

This was the only walnut chunk I had that looked wide enough for both the butt as well as the forend tip.

Can't just trace the outline of the stock and cut. Remember that the toe continues the line outward.

Toe (angle on the left) has to be accounted for by leaving some extra wood at the bottom. The heel on the right is almost a straight cut.

Drew a rough idea of how the curve should look from the side. Gotta think a little bit in 3D before starting the saw. Cut the end off and set aside. That will be for the forend.

It's easiest to cut the curve for the shoulder first, as the block still has flat sides to set on the saw's table. Don't ask why I know this...

Good enough. A large sanding drum will be used to finish the curve later.

I took the corners down, as well. Less to plane or sand off later. Took care to leave enough for the toe of the butt.

Set a sheet of 80 grit garnet paper on a granite surface plate. Make the base as flat as possible to fit against the stock. I repeated this procedure on the gunstock as well.

I'm doing this quick and dirty. Eyeballed a couple stock screw holes, clearance drilled and countersunk.

Not shown: Used a transfer punch to mark the hole locations on the stock. Drilled the stock for the wood screws. Ended up using a couple deck screws. Not elegant? Well, they're strong
and have black oxide coloring. No need to blue. Did a dry test-fit then it was Gorilla Glue time.

Moving forward. Here's the excess walnut from the butt. Laid the 180 stock on top of the walnut block and traced the angle. A quick cut with the chop saw and I'm ready to sand.

Again, the granite block is used to get flat surfaces on the walnut and the stock end.

Used a ruler and drew 3 lines for reference. When gluing these together, they'll help with alignment. The lines are at 90 degrees from the cut on the walnut.

This is why I drew those 90 degree lines. I can set the base on the drill press table. Spotted and drilled a clearance hole.

Counterbored.

Transfer punched and drilled a hole in the stock. Used another deck screw to fasten the walnut to the stock.

Glued and drying here. Due to the angle between the wood surfaces, I thought it would be very difficult to clamp the parts together for the glue bond. The deck screw made this easy. After drying, the screw will be removed to inlet for the gas tube. If I got this right, the glue bond should be stronger than the surrounding wood.

More to come.