I did end up prying off the staked washer on the valve. Probing with a dental pick showed that the o-ring was rock hard and I couldn't fish it out.
The old o-ring did not survive my probing.
My camera decided to focus on its own interests, I staked between the old stake marks which is ugly but should hold well.
A new o-ring for the other end, then the washer goes on top of it.
Old seals are shiny, new ones dull. The smaller o-ring that goes against the back of the threads looks smaller but the one in there had flattened, making it seem much larger than it was.
A new o-ring for the inlet valve.
Back together like this.
The bolt got a new o-ring as well. The old one was hard. Notice the cross hole for the "flow through" bolt tip.
The "flow through" bolt nose needs to be aligned with the transfer port, so you should not see the cross hole when putting the bolt in. The bolt cover and screw are replaced at this point.
The valve slides in from the front.
The threads are aligned with the grip frame hole.
Then I held it in place with the grip screw.
The transfer port was off slightly.
I used a pin punch to rotate it back into alignment. This is why I used the screw to hold the valve body. I replaced the transfer port seal.
Hammer and spring go back in, make sure the hammer stem is fully in place and the screw hole is lined up with the cocking knob cut out in the tube.
I think the cocking knob cleaned up well. I took some pictures of the process but they were all blurry. I made a mandrel that has the same screw threads, screwed the knob into the mandrel and then took off about .01" off of the OD and then filed it smooth. Some Scotchbrite to polish and Oxpho blue afterwards.
I lightly screwed the forward grip frame screw to connect the grip frame to the tube. Don't lose the safety spring & ball! I then screwed the breech and barrel, grip frame and rear sight all together.
The piston received a new o-ring. From asking around it seems this is a stock Crosman piston on the early 130's (or all 130's? I don't know.)
With a pin punch in place of the roll pin I determined the amount to adjust the piston so it just barely touched the valve face. Because there is slop here as opposed to with the roll pin it's better to have too much headspace. The barrel band/plug was replaced and the roll pin hammered in. The gun pumps and shoots, but then it did before. I'll have to dig up the old chrony numbers if I can find them and do a comparison. But that's a project for another time.
