Saturday, November 14, 2009

Haenel 310 Disassembly, Part 2

On I go...

The first time I disassembled the rifle (yes, I've done it more than once in the past few days...) I punched the pin out, removed the pin punch and something went "sproing-klunk" inside. I try and avoid that.

I found that it's easiest to have the action like this, held in a vise.

The pin is punched out.

A stout rod or pin punch takes up the spring force by hand and the pin punch is withdrawn from the cross pin hole.

Then the spring is relaxed...the spring force is not great.

The pin is grooved?

I pulled out the spring and piston assembly.

It's always something new with airguns.

The tube feeds the shot from the magazine and acts as one long transfer port for the compressed air (see the slot just in front of the piston seal?)

That tab at the end with the sides cut off would have to be navigated around in order to use a spring compressor. Notice the large sear surface.

Another view.

The nasty, greasy,leather seal. That small setscrew locks the piston head in place.

So I removed it.

The piston face unscrews with a spanner...

So I made one out of some steel pipe.

I milled away to make a spanner.

Unscrewing the piston face.

All the piston parts. Now it's just cleaning, reassembly, testing, disassembly, tweaking, come later...

Friday, November 13, 2009

Haenel 310 Disassembly, Part 1

I recently bought a Haenel 310-2 and Haenel 311 from a gentleman who answered one of my "WTB Beaters" posts on the yellow forum. The 310 had low power and is missing the front sight hood and rear sight elevator. There's some good info about the 310 up on Tom Gaylord's blog (part 1&2, part 3&4), as well as this Russian forum post, And although it's about the 310-4...
The 310 shoots 4.4mm round ball. I'll talk more about that later but I wonder if anyone knows of a source for precision round lead balls in 4.4mm (called "punktkugeln") from Germany? I found a few websites but am hesitant to order online in a foreign language...JG Airguns does have shot but I fear it's the same shot as the other US sourced shot I have which is not round (if it is truly round, let me know!). JG Airguns also has used Haenel 310s for $99.99 which is a pretty good deal if they're in ok shape.

The 310-2 held by my hard working imp.

The front sight is missing the hood. ("korntunnel")

And the rear missing the elevator.

Modell 3.102? Or 3102 or 310-2...nomenclature is confusing.

The 12 round magazine.

The magazine well.

Inserted into the rifle.

Low power...although Tom Gaylord had similar velocities...

One screw removed...

And the middle screw...

And the front trigger screw.

Shorter screw is the front screw.

The action.

The magazine well.

I pried off the cover.

The pin for the bolt pushes out. I straightened the bolt and pulled it free.

Pin holds the end cap.

The somewhat complex safety knob end...

I pulled out the trigger group. The piece of sheetmetal also pulls off. I believe it is a cutoff to keep the gun safe when cocking.

The parts removed so far. I have no great incentive to disassemble the trigger group.
More to come...

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Installing a Morgan Adjustable Pad on a Beeman R1

Completely struck out with that vintage Morgan pad. The base had been fitted to something pretty svelte. So, that's just one more reason to keep buying more airguns. Given enough new airgun purchases, the old pad will eventually fit one of them.

Since I was still in Morgan mode, I decided to fit the new model Premium Morgan I got from Nick a while back. Making the gun selection wasn't so easy. At least four or five different rifles were candidates. Eventually, I decided to fit it to a .22 cal Beeman R1. I consoled myself that I'll just eventually buy more pads.

Started by removing the old pad and white line spacer. Bolted down the new base using the existing stock holes. The base appeared to be well centered so I didn't need to drill new holes.

Above and here you can see the overhang. The aluminum needs to be ground away to fit.

I'll try to carry the contour of the buttstock through the lines of the base.

Traced the stock profile onto the base. Remember this is the gun side, so any angles cut need to flare outward slightly--especially at the heel where the angle is more severe.

I blackened the area with a magic marker. I know that using the pencil to trace will leave the plate a few hundredths or more larger all around. So, I guess I'm starting slow.

Started at it with a file. Rubbed the file with chalk first to help prevent the aluminum from clogging the teeth. Was only marginally successful. Used the file card to clean quite a bit then gave up and went to the bench grinder. Grinding aluminum on a bench grinder is probably best avoided. The wheel loads up with aluminum very quickly which minimizes the cutting action. Then there's the danger that the aluminum will heat and expand in the pores of the wheel and cause the wheel to shatter in use. I'd like to avoid that. Dressing the wheel frequently helps prevent excessive loading. A belt sander or a sanding drum with a coarse grit (something like 60) would have been a good alternative.

After the initial shaping. Guess I could have been more aggressive on the removal.

Coated the base in dykem layout fluid this time...

and reinstalled. Found a sharp scratch awl and scribed a very fine line around the perimeter.

As always, click any pic for an enlargement. The scratched line is pretty evident.

Went to the drill press next with that 60 grit sanding drum. Kept the base angled slightly to create the taper to match the buttstock. I did most of this by test fitting and by eye. There are tools from Brownells to make this easier and take some of the guesswork out.

Looked really close, so I block sanded it to 220 grit.

Then used a 3M fine finishing pad to remove the scratch lines leaving a nice matte finish. This single step took about 3 minutes.

It'd be fine to call it quits here and get on with your day. The pad is fitted alomst seamlessly over about 80% of the perimeter.

Still, I want it right.

The black line is the only area that still stands proud.

Back to the sanding drum to work that area down slightly. Then the 220 grit sanding block and again with the 3M pad.

When I was satisfied that it looked right, I hand buffed the sides with Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish.

Final installation--don't forget the all important adjusting bolt. The lines/angles look good on the stock-to-base transition. I like the angle at the toe.

Pad installed high.

And at the lower end of the travel.

One down, several more to go.