Sleeve for the HW35

Got side-tracked from the Patriot with a small project I've been meaning to get to for several months.  Just a simple barrel sleeve for the HW35.  This is completely subjective, but I've always felt that the gun would "hang" better offhand with some additional muzzle weight.  I've had a muzzle brake on the rifle for a while now and it just doesn't look or feel quite right on an otherwise vintage gun.  A barrel  sleeve similar to what was used on old 10-meter match guns might be a good solution.  Think I'm trying to say that I don't want it to look like it's been cobbled together.


















Started with a piece of 0.750" OD DOM steel tube.  The ID was 0.606" and a close fit to the barrel.  Chucked in the lathe and faced one end.

With the compound set by eyeball, a shallow taper was cut to the breech end.  The taper allows for clearance while cocking to insure there's no contact with the wood stock.  Could've done a more abrupt bevel, but to me, this is better looking.

Better pic of the taper.  Click any pic to enlarge.

With the taper done, I cut the piece just shy of finished length with a hacksaw and came back to the lathe and squared up the end.





 













Then, over to the mill in a collet block. Scratched two lines to denote the length and location of the tunnel front sight and I was ready.  Oh yeah, I set the table stops to stay inside the lines.

Started milling out a slot for the sight.

Test fitting consisted of attempting to fit the front sight into the hole.  Once I could see the dovetails on the ID, I dialed down a couple more thousandths and called it good.  A quick test fit on the gun (collet block still in place) showed that the front sight would clamp to the dovetail.  Now it just needs some set screws for mounting.

Without removing the sleeve from the collet, I turned it over in the vise and found center with a very simple center finder.  Chuck, then lower the indicator until the V is against the work.  Adjust lateral position until the marks on the indicator line up.

These work great for quickly locating the center of round stock in a mill or drill press.  Not as accurate as a "real" edge finder or wiggler, but for non-critical work this is absolutely ideal.

Not removing the work from the collet block also ensured that the set screw holes would be dead opposite from the milled slot.  Did the usual spot and drill, repeat two more times.

Tapped these by hand.  Faster than using a machine set up and more than precise enough to hold a tube to a barrel.  Tapped M4 x 0.7mm.

Needs a finish.

Sanded it in the lathe to 500 grit. then finished by hand with oiled emery cloth.

The slurry gave it a matte finish.

Looks like dull hard chrome.  Almost a raw titanium color.

Three coats of Van's Cold Blue followed by 0000 steel wool had it looking like an integral part of the HW.

The taper.

Clean fit with the sight.

Could've tweaked the length another 0.010" but it's fine--and better than too short.

The sleeve adds 11.3 oz. and doesn't look like an afterthought to the lines of the gun.

Should be back to work on the Patriot in a few more days.   Thanks for reading.

An Interesting Muzzle Weight for the HW35

When I bought the HW35E a month or so back, I also found this British made muzzle brake/moderator. Came in a plain cardboard box with a "made in England" sticker. The only other markings were handwritten: "for HW35 2-piece unit adapter and moderator for use with open sights all aluminum-unfinished"

Not much to go on.

I assumed the end cap was threaded to the main tube. Nope. It was juts a bad press fit. Inside, I found 2 coil springs and an aluminum cone shaped spacer. The piece on the far right is held onto the gun via the front sight and the brake threads into it. Please leave a comment at the end of the blog post if you know who made this thing.

Since the end cap didn't press fit all the way home--and since that's a lousy way to retain a part on a spring piston rifle, I shaved the OD of the cap down in the Taig.

Holding the piece was tricky--as was finding a knife that allowed enough clearance. A tiny homemade boring bar ground from a 1/4" blank tool bit just fit.

Now the cap will press in flush.

The body is marred in several spots. How many years of rattling around in various drawers? I'd think 20 to 25.

A well-greased dead center to hold the free end of the brake and a deft(ha!) touch on the carriage.

Many light passes later removed all the dings.

Another view.

A scotchbrite pad held against the surface gave a nice matte finish.

Did the same to the "adapter" piece.

Again, just another view.

Wasn't thrilled with the brake cap being simply press fit. If I do install the springs, they bear directly on the cap and will force it out of position. With the cap gingerly held in the 3-jaw, I cut a groove almost at the shoulder with a small parting tool.

Yet another view

And added a small, thin o-ring.

Size--unknown. Just grabbed something from a Plano box full of rings that looked somewhat promising.

With the cap pressed in, I marked 3 holes around the circumference.

And drilled with a #43 (0.0890") bit.

Followed up with a #4-40 tap. Did this 3 times.

The setscrews thread right into the outer wall of the brake as well as into the cap. It's not moving.

The brake wiggles a bit when installed on the HW35. I found an M5 x .8mm set screw to modify. Cut one down with a hacksaw and threaded it into an M5 nut--on left. I think the set screw was originally for a Leapers/Centerpoint scope mount as a recoil stop pin.

Faced the set screw.

And using a 3/32" end mill, drilled a flat bottomed hole.

Then turned down a small piece of delrin (AKA: acetal) to fit. Parted it off and pressed it into the set screw. The delrin protrudes about 0.050"--enough to not mar the barrel.

Drilled the bottom of the adapter with a #20 bit.

And using the chuck as a tap holder, tapped the hole to M5 x .8mm for the set screw.

Installed over the ugliest carpet in the attic I could find.

Interesting design. I'm fascinated with how they thought to mill the brake for the front sight. I can't imagine how many models of bases they'd have to make to fit all the various guns. Didn't bother to install the springs or the aluminum cone. There is absolutely no noise reduction whatsoever. Don't yet know if this is a keeper on the gun. The rifle looks like it could be used for pole vaulting, it's so long.