Friday, April 8, 2011

Haenel 303-Super Tear Down Part 1

Modest guy that he is, Nick didn't mention that his last post was number five hundred for Anotherairgunblog. I think 500 posts is certainly a milestone. It's certainly testimony to Nick's hard work and mechanical genius and I congratulate him heartily.

So, I'm finally getting back around to my Haenel 303-Super. I refinished the stock about a year ago and it's high time that the mechanicals get some attention, too. Pretty sure that working on Guy's Walther LG55 last week was the kick in the pants that I needed.

Haenel--Before the wall came down.

Step one, removed the funky rear sight unit.

then the front sight...

Removed the trigger guard. Rear is a wood screw.

Front is a metric bolt--M5 thread size I believe. Didn't write it down, don't send hate mail.



Removed the two long bolts from the forend then the center fixing bolt...

and the action lifts right out of the stock.

Inside the forend, there's a spring loaded steel button that keeps the cocking lever in place. This gun has hardly been used and the button is already grooved. I'll have to think about how to fix this before it becomes a problem.

Punched out the cross pin holding the end cap. Used a homemade brass drift to avoid marring the pin.

The trigger housing has an observation port.

Twisted the safety 180 degrees...

and it pulled straight out. (Sidebar to Tom G-- Hmmm, my gun doesn't have an automatic safety, either.)

Then the end cap was carefully pried free.

There's a small, spring-loaded ball bearing inside the cap to provide the detent for the safety. I "tapped the cap". It's plastic. If I find myself with loads of free time at reassembly, I may opt to make a new cap from steel. Not that it's necessary, but it would be a nice touch. If I'm really, really bored.

As I have no idea how much tension the mainspring is under, I thought it prudent to use the spring compressor.

Found a suitable dowel to fit inside the tube.

Took out the bolt and nothing happened--???

Ahhhh, the steel plate is a locking fit into the base of the spring guide.

Anti-climactic. The compressor was for naught. The spring only has about half an inch of preload. Can you see the gouges in the end of the compression tube? Looks like the canals of Mars.

Given the massive spring size and lack of preload, it's unlikely this spring will ever wear out. Note the absurdly short spring guide.

Is it just me or does the coil size look like overkill? Seriously, it's a target gun.

Cocking lever pulls out of the slot. No separate shoe. It's all one piece of thick stamped sheet metal.

Piston came out easily. It shows substantial evidence of flame hardening.

The piston seal is waxed leather. Seriously, heavily waxed leather with a central leather reinforcing washer.

More to come.

I'm heading to the "Toys that Shoot" Airgun show in Findlay, OH in the morning. I'll try to get a show post together as quickly as possible.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

A.B.T. Ammo Update

Stuart Shippee emailed me to say that he has around a thousand original, loaded ammo tubes for the A.B.T. rifle for sale. You can check them out on his website. He was kind enough to send me a few tubes to check out. The price is quite reasonable and so far as I know he’s the only source for the tubes right now.


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Heavier duty than my crude home made tubes. They are marked AIR-O-MATIC A.B.T. MFG. CORP. CHICAGO, ILL. U.S.A. with illegible patent numbers.


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The tubes I received (for free, no complaints here!) were his “seconds” from the bottom of his box and the balls had some rust. When I tried to force (again, if I have learned anything, and in this case I haven’t, never force anything when it comes to airguns) the feed the tube got carried into the action and shredded.


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After cleaning out the mess I ended up manually pushing all the balls out of the other tubes with a pin punch (I had to gently tap with a hammer at first, holding the tube loosely in my hand, to get them started) and reloading the tubes with clean 3/16” ball bearings. I would probably do this even with the good quality ones he’s selling just to make sure, as well as to exercise the 50 year old cardboard. Would you shoot 50 year old cardboard shotgun shells? Again, I have no complaints as what I was after wasn’t 50 year old ball bearings, but 50 year old cardboard tubes.


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With the tubes reloaded I had no problem loading, firing, reloading over and over. You just have to be careful with the ends of the tubes that they don’t get mushed, or bent when loading them. I’m happy to have authentic ammunition for my old carny rifle.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Crosman 105 Disassembly, Part 2

On I go…


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The grip frame is held by two screws, just like on every other Crosman pistol of this type.


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Grip frame.


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The pivot pin for the sear was missing. I’ll find a suitable replacement.


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There’s a nice slotted guide for the sear spring.


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The safety spring was missing. The detent ball was still at the bottom of the hole.


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The trigger pivot pin. Knurled at one end for retention.


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The safety. A complex little part.


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The trigger.


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The rear sight. I removed the two setscrews.


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Drifted it out of the dovetail.


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The end cap is retained by two small setscrews.


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It comes out a little under hammer spring pressure.


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Then the spring comes out and the hammer…Can’t remove it yet as the cocking knob is in the way.


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A screw retains the knob.


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That’s a small spring washer for slight tension on the knob.


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The hammer.


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The bolt is held in by the cocking pin. It has to be unscrewed through the slot.


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The cross hole had a spring in it that shot across the room. Live and learn. Maybe I’ll find it but more likely I’ll have to make a replacement.


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Valve nut needs a special tool to remove it.


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Valve nut.


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I pushed against the inlet valve with a 3/16” brass rod.


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The valve components.


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Here’s how it looks assembled.


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Inlet valve.


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Exhaust valve. I’ll make replacement seals for both.


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The whole gun apart. Now to reseal, replace parts and get some grips.