Early Sheridan Model C, Part 4

Making the pump cup adapter.I turned down some free machining steel. Made it long in case I screwed up. Drilled it out a bit.Bored to the minor diameter. Had “fun” boring it out so it would have a lip that retained the pump cup. The tool has to cut on three sides which means that it doesn’t cut that well.
But the pump cup snaps in!  Some chatter marks. I’m not perfect.  Parting to length. I placed the old metal cup in the picture to show that the new part isn’t that much longer.
Getting it to run true.  Drilling. I didn’t want to break through into the cup chamber.
Tapping 1/4”-28 tpi. Definitely enough threads. Done.  Came out well in my opinion. Next comes cleaning all the mechanical bits and reassembling, which is straightforward (I hope). Then some quick stock refinishing.

Early Sheridan Model C, Part 3

On I go…One pin for the trigger assembly. This shows two springs, a heavier one for the trigger and a lighter one for the safety. Good to note so they don’t get swapped. The safety spring slips into a recess in the top. Trigger parts.The safety pin is staked in and there is no reason to remove the safety. I would love to see the fixture that holds the end cap and stakes the pin in place. Three screws, the bottom one is a flat head. Hammer, spring guide pin, hammer spring, end cap. Removed the valve bits with a standard valve tool and puller. Notice the conical exhaust valve spring.  Interestingly the current replacement valve is the same length, while both are shorter than those used on interim models that have a pressed in pin to lengthen the valve stem. But the boss on the end is larger on the replacement… And will not fit in the end of the exhaust valve spring. So I decided to take a bit off, hoping that there was enough material. And it appears there was. I dug out the other lead seal – on later models a rubber seal is used for the forward seal.  The trigger guard needs removing. An offset screwdriver does the trick. Will have to clean it up a bit. Interesting dings in the pump rod linkage. Lots of adjustment left, so I should be fine making a pump cup adapter. Preliminary sketches and measurements.
So now I need to make the cup adapter, clean all the parts and refinish the stock. Should take a while.

Early Sheridan Model C, Part 2

On I go…Two roll pins removed.  Nice square rubber bumper in the forearm slot. Odd dings on the pump lever. Note the flat spring down in the slot.Formed bushing. It’s always risky when pushing the roll pins out of the forearm, especially when they have complex grain as this one did. countersinking the hole edge can help, but it’s no guarantee. In this case it popped a small chip out. Not a disaster, it will be barely noticeable when glued back in and refinished.  A small piece of rubber behind the square bumper… I just find it interesting. An afterthought at the factory or did a previous owner jam a scrap of rubber into the forearm? The linkage is color case hardened. Cam plate and screws. One screw has started to strip. The bolt, notice the lack of an o-ring groove. It uses a metal-to-metal conical seal, like the old Crosmans. Pump rod & cup. It was oiled by the previous owner, but did not respond, being hard as a rock. An adjustable rod at both ends, unlike the current pump rod. Digging out the old pump cup. A pile of rubber. I believe the old cups were molded in the part, not separate. A new pump cup does not fit the old part. Will have to make an adapter. The end cap is held by screws. Three screws, one under the sear/trigger. Detail of the safety.Somewhat interesting.

More to come…