Crosman 1100 Miscellany

I resealed the 1100! It’s been holding gas for about a week and I’ll be doing more with it but I thought I’d share some various pictures. Reassembly was by and large just like disassembly in reverse.


I was given an aftermarket valve “stem” made from plastic. I decided to use it. Seems to work, but being new to the gun not sure how much of a difference it makes.

When reassembling in the housing I found it was a good idea to use a screw to capture the piercing end of the valve assembly in the tube with a screw while fastening it to the other half of the housing. The tube looks a bit scratched up, but I don’t care.

I found a replacement for the broken screw, it’s a later Crosman screw from some gun or the other. It’s ugly but it works.

I found some plain steel screws that were a match for the diameter of the old butt plate screws, but longer. I gave them a quick cold blue. I drilled the holes a bit deeper in the stock.

I cleaned up the butt plate as well. Just a quick buff after getting what looked like old varnish off.

I’m going to draw up the shot shell in CAD. I had a few that were split so I took them apart. My measurements varied from shell to shell so I want to take a bigger sample before I put anything up.

Pushing the wad out with a paperclip.

Weight of the shot charge.

The shot. Notice the broken one. It’s .09” diameter.

The end of the shell has a breakaway piece.

A shot shot shell.

One of the split shells had two wads in place.
I’ll write more when I start shooting the gun.

Crosman 1100 Piercing Cap and Idiocy

The tube, polished up a bit to remove the worst of the rust. It’s pitted. Shouldn’t be that big of an issue as it’s hidden by the forearm.

Unfortunately all the pounding, even though I used the plastic drift, flared out the end of the tube. Darn. This is an example of one of the many reasons why I don’t fix other people’s airguns. If I had to do it again I probably would have sawed the forearm off…

So I removed about .08” of length of the tube threads. I hope that it won’t matter and that I can remove even more. I can screw the cap on now but it is too tight for my liking. When I get things put back together I can check and see how much wiggle room I have.

That stuck piercing cap. I chose a spare socket…

And made a spanner from it…

And sheared off one ear from the force being applied. At this point I asked on the Vintage Airgun forum if there was a trick, and indeed there was: “That nut has a threadlocking compound on it, so it will require a bit of heat to free it up. But most importantly - that nut has a left hand thread. Heat it up, and turn it clockwise to remove it.” Thanks LeonardJ!

So out came my trusty heat gun.

Done after heating for about a minute. A left hand thread makes sense as you don’t want the front to unscrew against the thrust of the cap being screwed onto the tube. Nonetheless it was a surprise.

This is how I held it in a vise without marring it.

A small hard o-ring inside the end.

All the parts.

Yes, a left hand thread.

I think the spanner came out better the 2nd time around as well.

Crosman Trapmaster 1100 Disassembly, Part 6

Last disassembly post, next post will be me trying to fix it in my typical hamfisted manner.


I made the plastic drift even longer.

Finally got it out. Look at that rust(?) on the barrel.

Or glue? Maybe someone though the forearm was loose and tried to tack it in place?

It’s interesting rust.

The tube seems ok although dirty inside.

The piercing cap should come apart easily.

Ok, I can remove this.

Bent my much modified tool.

Finally unscrewed the top piercing pin. But I was unable to go further. The piercing cap pieces are stuck together. I’m soaking them and may need to apply heat. It’s not as bad as some guns I’ve taken apart but a few issues will need to be dealt with.

Crosman Trapmaster 1100 Disassembly, Part 5

A little longer…

Just two pieces left…

Rear cartridge piercing.

I braced it in a vice and unscrewed it.


Well two pieces came out…

The o-ring has an old nick.

The piercer won’t come out…soaked it in some WD40.

So the valve tube assembly end won’t come out because one screw is sheared off. I drilled it down below the surface.

Finally. Man, look at that rust. I was hesitant to take the Trapmaster apart as it looked ok, but clearly it needed this.

Even the o-ring is rusty.

Valve spring.

Valve assembly.

At least the valve seat looks good.

Valve parts.

That seal looks ok.

Finally was able to jimmy out the piercing pin with a broken dental pick.

The screen retainer was so rusty it broke when I removed it.

Dang, that’s nasty.
One more post…