Match Grips for a Crosman 22XX Part 3

And the shaping continues.

A small sanding drum from a Dremel tool grinds a notch for the safety.

Test fit looks good.

Bolted the grips to the frame and sanded the bottoms flat as one piece.

Then set the grip frame on top of the same walnut board the grips came from... Traced around the base of the right-side grip and sketched out a palm shelf. Uh, there's a knot hole there.

Intentionally cut the palm shelf slightly oversize to allow for shaping.

A piece of scrap walnut was planed down to 1/4" thickness...

...to make a spacer for the gap at the bottom of the grip frame.

Traced.

Cut just oversize.



Sanded to fit against the bottom of the frame. Only the front, bottom and back edges will be visible upon completion. Those sides will get sanded flush a bit later.

Had to do some minor fitting of the palm shelf so it would slide up and down the grip. The clearance against the bottom of the grip frame was giving me some headaches.

I thought the knot hole added some nice grain swirls and added visual appeal (that's why I used that section of the board).

More of the endless test fitting. Still need to attach the palm shelf to the right-side grip panel.

Drilled two holes in the shelf. A single, center bolt would work, but I've found that two-bolt shelves are more secure and don't cant and shift under hand pressure.

Drilled the second hole then set the depth stop and counterbored with a forstner bit for the allen heads. Use 6-32 fasteners just to be consistent. (Crosman 22XX grips use 6-32's)

Set the palm shelf on the grip, inserted a transfer punch through one bolt hole. Slid the shelf up and down the grip leaving a scribed line. Repeated in the other hole. These mark the centers of the adjustment slots needed.

Mounted the grip in the Taig vertical slide. Essentially, this attachment turns the lathe into a horizontal mill. A 1/8" center cutting end mill was mounted into the headstock and the grooves were cut like butter.

Reversed the set-up and used a larger end mill to cut shallow relief grooves for the nuts.

Nothing fancy. A couple 6-32 square nuts in the recesses will allow the palm rest to slide up and down for adjustment. Not shown: I ended up re-cutting the grooves and recesses to allow for a bit more additional upward adjustment.

A bolt-on test fit. Progress!

Still more to come.

Disassembling an IZH Baikal 513M, Part 3

On I go...

Rear bushing and washer...

Spring guide and washers.

One steel washer and one polymer washer, presumably to tame the vibration. It's looking like the only lube IZH uses is oil, so I feel good about deciding to lube the rifle properly.

I found the piston rod spring, "piston sear" and balls just sitting inside the main spring.

The sear (not to be confused with the trigger sear) parts.

The spring, oily and covered with dirty corrosion?

I tried as best I could to get that pin out but I couldn't. I didn't want to break anything so it's going to stay there. The pin retains both the piston head and piston rod.

Another steel and then polymer washer.

The piston seal is fine, you can see where it hits the transfer port. Like most IZH/Baikal airguns this one came with a spare seal, spring and a bonus of two more sear balls.

So the piston sear fits under spring tension into the piston rod.

And the balls go in the hole.

But how do I get the whole thing back together? This Russian Airgun Forum post had a hint... the piston rod bushing has a slit and can be expanded over the larger diameter end of the piston rod.

The bushing covers the ball holes, retaining everything.

That can now be slid into the spring guide.

Which pushes the bushing off of the end, and onto the middle of the rod, where I first found it.


And everything stays together. We'll see if it works as smoothly when I'm putting it all back together. I'm still a a little fuzzy on the ball sear mechanism. But the rifle is apart and that's 1/3 of the job done! (1/3 boring: deburring, cleaning and lubing, 1/3 reassembly)...

Disassembling an IZH Baikal 513M, Part 2

On I go...

Here I am holding the blocking lever down so you can see how it looks...

Held by another spring.

Pivoted off.

And unhooked.

Then I had to remove the trigger mechanism. Two screws from the rear hold it on.

I'm not sure if I'll mess with the trigger unit.

The "rear bushing" retains the spring...

So I mounted the tube in the spring compressor.

Those two knurled head pins retain it. I had to play a bit to get them out. I had to take up enough tension to remove them but not too much or they bind.

You can see they are grooved, which is why I had to find the middle position to get them out.

See that oily sheen?

This is the amount of preload. Not much but it's a powerful spring!



More to come...

Disassembling an IZH Baikal 513M, Part 1

I had already installed a Morgan plastic adjustable recoil pad on the 513M that Derrick picked up for me at the Pyramyd "garage sale". The gun is quite powerful, 780 fps with CP 14.9 gr. pellets. The recoil is rather harsh (not Gamo harsh, but still uncomfortable) so I decided I would take it apart and give it a "lube tune". Here's an exploded drawing.

Front screws.

There's a "polymer" tube to cushion the recoil between the screws and stock.

The screw, large washer and tube. One on each side.

Just as with most air rifles the rear trigger guard screw also retains the action.

Action removed, you can see the beartrap safety system rack (blocking rack). This (hopefully) prevents the barrel from whipping up if you fail to grasp it securely while cocking.

Barrel pivot screw is a #3 phillips.

The other end is a circular nut.

The anti-beartrap pawl is held onto the cocking arm near the shoe with a circlip.

Removed and one of the "wheels" that presumably rides the rack of the mechanism.

The other side showing the pawl and spring that keeps it under tension.

Unhooking it from the spring.

I couldn't for the life of me unhook the spring from the cocking arm.

The end of the pivot screw.

There are two lockwashers under it and one under the screw head.

The end of the "blocking lever" is hoocked around the shoe.

I pulled it out and around.

I couldn't get the stamped steel washers off of the breech block. They seem happy there.

The spring that tensions the pawl that I couldn't get off of the cocking arm? All of a sudden it was off. Funny how that works.

More to come...