This is where the orbital sander got things.
Continued with the 100 grit garnet paper and hand sanded the rest of the varnish off.
It's pretty thin. It's all right on top of the wood--which is working in my favor for a change.
I do have a couple small detail sanders, they're out on loan to my sister.
Still unsure what to do with the factory stippling. I've got a few ideas I'm considering.
I left the Morgan buttpad decision up to Nick. He says to keep the factory pad since it's in perfect shape. I'll gladly defer to his opinion--especially since it means I don't have to do any additional fitting--or sanding.
I know what I want this stock to look like, I'm trying to figure out how to get there.
More soon.
6 comments:
Why don't you use paint remover, Nitromors or something like that?
Regards, Bart
Bart,
You mean on the stippling, I assume? I'll probably try BIX, as I've got some at home. I'm thinking about adding some additional stippling, so it may be easier to sand off all the stippling and start from scratch rather than attempt to exactly match the factory's technique.
SO far, it's all come down to lack of time this week.
That stock really does have some beautiful figure to it. I will be watching this series very closely.
Have you any plans to shape the fore end any so that it will not be so blocky?
SL,
No, blocky equals target gun, so the stock shape stays. I've had a pile of sporter-type spring guns. This one is weird, so I like it.
maybe doing a Skeletonized effect on the rear half of the stock would really make a difference in the look of the gun not to mention decrees weight giving it a cool factor of 10 unless its has some collection value in that case forget it.
Anon,
Weight is an important attribute in a gun used to shoot targets. It adds stability and slows down shooter's movements. For that reason, target-type rifles should weigh at least 10 pounds.
Besides, I can't cut out all the nice grain in the buttstock--that's the best part of this stock.
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