Monday, July 12, 2010

Another Sheridan Blue Streak, Part 2

There’s really no way to make refinishing a stock interesting…


I sanded the stock down as much as possible without changing the shape radically.


There were a few chips I couldn’t remove entirely. No biggie. The Sheridan will end up with more dings in the future.


The forearm sanded.


Again, I tried to remove the minimum.


First coat of Tru-Oil.


For some reason the forends of the Sheridans of that era that I have are all lighter wood than the buttstocks.


After the oil dries, I smoothed it with steel wool. And repeated the process about 8 times…


I found it a bit too shiny. The grain is pretty well filled however.


I decided to knock the shine down by waxing as the final step. Because I’m cheap and lazy I just used some Minwax.


I shined up the plug.


And reblued the trigger guard after removing most of the rust.


The trigger got the same treatment but I also polished it and smoothed it more.


The Oxpho blue worked magic on it. Need to polish items more to get a better blue I guess.


I know, boring, but I’m in awe of how well the blue took.


The only issue in reassembly was that the two front roll pins (pivot and plug retention) had stress cracks.


You can see the crack better here. I replaced the pins.


Using a piece of brass rod as an anvil while I spread the split rivet’s tabs to refasten the trigger guard.


Another view.


So all done.


Compare it to the before picture:


A small improvement.


I haven’t measured the velocity but it pumps up and sounds as strong as any Sheridan I have (why do I have so many Sheridans?). I’ll shoot it a bit this week.


jz2 said...

Hey Nick,
what's your procedure to sand. i have two to do. I refinished one stock with truoil but I felt it built up too fast. I tried some rod makers varnish, which I like better, and some straight tung oil - steel wooled between and then recoated. do you thin the truoil?

Felice Luftschein said...

I sanded with 150 grit then 220 and then 240 which was the finest I had. I used maroon scotch brite and 000 steel wool and then switched the 0000 steel wool for the final coats. Then the minwax, one coat.
I didn't thin the truoil. It can be thick but it does fill the grain well.

Anonymous said...


I really love the way the trigger came out. How polished does the metal have to be before bluing for that quality of finish?

I am just starting a 1377 clean up job and want to blue the barrel and reservoir. Do you think the frame will blue also?


Felice Luftschein said...

I gave it a mirror finish pretty much. And cold blues are hit or miss. In this case it was a hit.
The frame won't blue as I think it's made out of aluminum or zinc alloy (not sure).

derrick38 said...

The cold blues are hit and miss because they react differently with various alloys. Since we're never sure what the alloy is, it's a crap shoot. Best advice is to have 3 or 4 different cold blues on hand. Barrels and compression tubes are tough, as that's a lot of area to blend. I'd personally try a bluing paste first as I think they're much easier to blend on large areas. Let us know how it goes and what you have success with.

Anonymous said...

Thanks guys. This is my first project that I can see an end goal with a working piece. Keep ya posted.


Slinging Lead said...


What have you got against original patina? That god awful dark oval drips of authenticity. That alone would be worth at least an extra $100 on gunbroker.

"Lazy?" Surely you jest.

Great blog a usual.