I did end up prying off the staked washer on the valve. Probing with a dental pick showed that the o-ring was rock hard and I couldn't fish it out.
The old o-ring did not survive my probing.
My camera decided to focus on its own interests, I staked between the old stake marks which is ugly but should hold well.
A new o-ring for the other end, then the washer goes on top of it.
Old seals are shiny, new ones dull. The smaller o-ring that goes against the back of the threads looks smaller but the one in there had flattened, making it seem much larger than it was.
A new o-ring for the inlet valve.
Back together like this.
The bolt got a new o-ring as well. The old one was hard. Notice the cross hole for the "flow through" bolt tip.
The "flow through" bolt nose needs to be aligned with the transfer port, so you should not see the cross hole when putting the bolt in. The bolt cover and screw are replaced at this point.
The valve slides in from the front.
The threads are aligned with the grip frame hole.
Then I held it in place with the grip screw.
The transfer port was off slightly.
I used a pin punch to rotate it back into alignment. This is why I used the screw to hold the valve body. I replaced the transfer port seal.
Hammer and spring go back in, make sure the hammer stem is fully in place and the screw hole is lined up with the cocking knob cut out in the tube.
I think the cocking knob cleaned up well. I took some pictures of the process but they were all blurry. I made a mandrel that has the same screw threads, screwed the knob into the mandrel and then took off about .01" off of the OD and then filed it smooth. Some Scotchbrite to polish and Oxpho blue afterwards.
I lightly screwed the forward grip frame screw to connect the grip frame to the tube. Don't lose the safety spring & ball! I then screwed the breech and barrel, grip frame and rear sight all together.
The piston received a new o-ring. From asking around it seems this is a stock Crosman piston on the early 130's (or all 130's? I don't know.)
With a pin punch in place of the roll pin I determined the amount to adjust the piston so it just barely touched the valve face. Because there is slop here as opposed to with the roll pin it's better to have too much headspace. The barrel band/plug was replaced and the roll pin hammered in. The gun pumps and shoots, but then it did before. I'll have to dig up the old chrony numbers if I can find them and do a comparison. But that's a project for another time.
10 comments:
I have the same valve in my 130. The reseal kits I see on the web are for different type of valve. Where did you get the o rings from because I need a complete set . This valve is the original one. It was use on the early models.
Because it's compressed air, any o-ring type should work. Just take the originals to a good hardware store which should have a variety of rings, or get a cheap assortment from Harbor Freight.
I have an early - mid 50's 130. It has a cup seal and does not have a spring behind the hammer. Your post encouraged me to reseal this old pistol. There was some corrosion in the tube that I must not have cleaned out sufficiently as I still can't good pressure no matter how many times I pump it. It fires but is very weak. I guess I'll tear it down again and see what I can do. thanks for your article(s).
I thougt i lost the hammer spring
because it was not in the box of
the gun wear i put all the parts
If it dosent have a hammer spring how does it work?I have not
put the gun together yet i rebuilt the ex valve was the older type had to re stake washer
over.Going to blue the parts. so tell me how does it work? do you have a manual that shows all the parts like this older version i also have a cup type pump seal.Got a new one on line.
ynplowmI have a early 130 has no hammer spring How does it work? resealed the ex valve older type had to restake the washer.it also has a cup type pump valve got one on line.havent put the gun back togeather yet i thought i lost the hammer spring but you said yours did not have one.sounds like its the same version.any way how does it work with out a spring?Do you have a parts sheet showing all the parts in a row?Hope to here from you soon.will check back later
http://www.crosman.com/pdf/manuals/crosman/130/C130-EVP.pdf
It's a blowoff valve - so the sear holds the cap on the valve, when you pull the trigger the cap comes off due to the air pressure. There can be a spring for autorecocking, but I don't know if all models have that.
I'm having a hard time deciding if the model of Crosman 130 I have requires the 130-036 transfer port such as https://www.amazon.com/Crosman-Transfer-Port-Kit-1322A026/dp/B00GBEYH08
I see a 130-036 listed on a Crosman 130 diagram but the parts aren't always 100% depending on the model. I believe I have a 1953 Crosman 130 as it came with the wood grips.
I rebuilt all of the seals and it works but has very poor pressure. It feels like there is air escaping at the transfer port site. Places that list the 130-036 do not mention the Crosman 130 as a compatible device. I'm also going to ask the sellers if they can confirm as well but I found this blog and hoped you could answer from experience with the rebuild. Thanks!
Just make a transfer port seal from some 1/4" tubing.
Nick
Thank you Great info just what was looking for .. burt
What is the size of the rear spring ( diameter and length are wire gauge if known)? In the pistol I have it is missing. It is the early model 130 with wood grips and the manual cocking pin - not sure of the actual name.
Bob
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