Crosman 1100 Piercing Cap and Idiocy

The tube, polished up a bit to remove the worst of the rust. It’s pitted. Shouldn’t be that big of an issue as it’s hidden by the forearm.

Unfortunately all the pounding, even though I used the plastic drift, flared out the end of the tube. Darn. This is an example of one of the many reasons why I don’t fix other people’s airguns. If I had to do it again I probably would have sawed the forearm off…

So I removed about .08” of length of the tube threads. I hope that it won’t matter and that I can remove even more. I can screw the cap on now but it is too tight for my liking. When I get things put back together I can check and see how much wiggle room I have.

That stuck piercing cap. I chose a spare socket…

And made a spanner from it…

And sheared off one ear from the force being applied. At this point I asked on the Vintage Airgun forum if there was a trick, and indeed there was: “That nut has a threadlocking compound on it, so it will require a bit of heat to free it up. But most importantly - that nut has a left hand thread. Heat it up, and turn it clockwise to remove it.” Thanks LeonardJ!

So out came my trusty heat gun.

Done after heating for about a minute. A left hand thread makes sense as you don’t want the front to unscrew against the thrust of the cap being screwed onto the tube. Nonetheless it was a surprise.

This is how I held it in a vise without marring it.

A small hard o-ring inside the end.

All the parts.

Yes, a left hand thread.

I think the spanner came out better the 2nd time around as well.

Yet Another Grip for a 22XX Pistol--Part 3 Final

Almost done with the rosewood grips.















Yeah, there was still more sanding.

Wanted more definition on the thumb shelf on the left grip.  Had to make a run to the hardware store for more sanding drums.

When I got bored sanding the grips,  I sanded the grip frame.

Quit at 400 grit.  It's going to get painted after all.  Not shown:  The grip frame and side plate were sprayed with three coats of black satin.

Wiped the grips down with a tack cloth. 

Rubbed in a couple coats of Zinsser Bullseye shellac.  Used the heel of my hand and burnished the shellac into the wood.  It dries in no time and can be repaired almost as fast.

The maple spacers have nice contrast.  

 

For now, I'm calling it good enough.  These were supposed to be (relatively) quick after all.  They get the gun up and running and they're nicer than the stock plastic.